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Taking a Break 2008

Me on the Moors

The summer had been really wet but finally we chose to go to Devon and explore the mighty moors. Our little band was made of myself, Spon and Hughie. We decided to try the 'Camping Barn' experience, due to the magnitude of moisture underfoot.

Our first night was spent in Oxfordshire, near Wantage. The barn had an airy dining hall, with exposed beams and little cosy niches. We were surprised the next morning when we were expected to leave by 10am and they were waiting for us to go! We hoped we would meet nicer people in the days ahead.

We climbed White Horse Hill and theorized about the ancient monument. Picturing a world from long ago, I thought that the outline figure would look amazing up on the hill from below in the moonlight. I felt that the landscape at the hills foot would have been perfect for racing horses, which would have represented a king's wealth and power in those days. But then again, is the figure on the hill really a horse? Close up it could be a dragon! We know that Celtic art included many mythological figures….

From there it was a long ride down to Dartmoor, but we reached Postbridge and found the farm. This place had friendly sheep dogs and feisty sheep!

A couple of miles away we found a stone circle which seemed untouched and serene in the morning dew. This day we explored Dartmoor's ancient history and decided to go to Merrivale. We got soaked, but the walk was very rewarding.

Merrivale Stone Row

Firstly we found the long stone rows, which seemed connected to long forgotten rituals. We passed other stone circles, jumped a swollen stream, as the ford was impassable, then climbed up to Kings Tor, a pile of huge boulders. We sheltered from the rain under the rocks, and then went for a walk over the moor, following a poorly written, outdated guide book.

The boys on the rock

We reached a bridge, a remnant of a long gone railway line, and realized we were lost. The water distorts the landscape, making paths into streams. We realized later that this is how we lost our way, but also that the book would have taken us so far out it would have taken hours to get back.

An aerial mast on the hill enabled us to orientate ourselves. This involved walking across a field, although fields are not what they appear to be on Dartmoor. Foliage fools you into thinking there is solid ground and our boots sank through mud and surface water. Verily it was a bog.

Back at the car we noticed that a mist had descended and inhibited any view of the mast, the key to our safe return. I think they should put up sign posts!

We stopped at Okehampton for fish and chips, then carried on into the night, over the winding roads to Exmoor. Finding the camping barn was a challenge but worth the effort. It became our base to visit Exmoor.

Spon and Chicken

We were curious to visit the Tarr Stepps. This turned out to be a bridge that had been constructed in prehistory and survives today. It was an impressive structure, sitting low over the water, but cleverly built to handle the flow of the river. It gave a clue to the ingenuity of past peoples, evidence of the world as it once was.

Tarr Steps Exmoor

A man asked if one of us could take a photo – we volunteered Hughie who then shot of a group waving their hands in the air along the prehistoric bridge.

On our last day we drove to the coast to explore the coastal paths around Lynmouth. I struggled to deal with the height, but kept up with my friends. The wild goats there seemed not to notice the danger at all!

Spon and Hughie summoning Neptune

We learned that water shapes this landscape, not only on the moors, but in the towns. Dulverton and Lynmouth had experienced drastic flooding in recent history and memories survive today of the suffering this caused. Even the Tarr steps had been washed away during a flood and had to be rebuilt afterwards.

We returned home after exploring this beautiful countryside, wiser for our journey. I promised myself that I would put Lorna Doon on my Christmas reading list.

Spon and Hughie rap on torr

EJ 2008